$200 to $500 and generally under an hour once the correct pane is in hand, which along Stenton Avenue is often the same day for common cars. What separates a finished job from a quick one is what happens behind the door card: the plastic water barrier gets resealed properly rather than taped back, because that sheet is the only thing keeping rain out of the cabin. Call 215-608-1108 with the year, make and model.
4.4★ on Google — 64+ reviews
Every door on a modern car is designed to be wet inside. Rain runs down the outside of the glass, past the seal, into the door cavity and out through drain holes in the bottom of the skin. What keeps that water out of the cabin is a thin plastic sheet bonded across the inner skin of the door, hidden behind the trim panel, and it has to be cut or peeled back to get at the glass and the regulator. Reinstating it properly, with the original butyl reactivated or replaced along the whole edge, is the step that separates a job you never think about again from a car with a damp carpet in the back and a smell it cannot shake.
The glass work itself is quick. Door card off, cubes vacuumed out of the cavity, run channels and felt guides cleared, the new pane fitted into the regulator clamps and set square so it seals along its whole length rather than at one corner. Setting it square is what stops wind noise, and wind noise is the complaint that brings people back. If the window whistles at speed after a replacement, it is almost never the glass and almost always how it was seated. Say on the phone whether the window still travels and whether it dropped into the door, since both tell us what state the mechanism is likely to be in.
“Called him in the morning, he called back and I went at lunch to get the window replaced. Fast, east for me. Excellent work, good price. Would use him again, no worries!”
More on this service: Side & Rear Window Replacement at Ogontz Glass & Mirror Co →
The awkward part around here is dealing with it at the kerb of a working arterial. Stenton Avenue carries buses and trucks past the parking lane closely and constantly, and standing in the road beside a car door clearing broken glass is genuinely not safe on this stretch, especially in the dark. So do less at the scene, not more: photograph it, cover the opening from inside the frame, and drive it in if it is safe to drive. The cubes on the pavement are the one thing worth clearing before you go, because this is a walking route to the bus and the station and blunt glass in the footway is somebody else's problem otherwise. Everything inside the car is better dealt with in the bay.
Same service, same price, other West Oak Lane neighborhoods:
It very often is. The plastic water barrier inside the door has to be lifted to reach the glass, and if it is put back with a strip of tape rather than resealed along its full edge, water running down inside the door finds the gap and drops onto the carpet instead of out of the drain holes. It usually shows up in the first heavy rain after the work. It is fixable: the trim comes off, the barrier is cleaned and properly rebonded, and the drain holes at the bottom of the door get checked while it is open.
That is usually a regulator or clamp problem rather than a glass problem, and it is worth saying so on the phone because it changes what needs to be on hand. The door still has to come apart the same way, and once it is open it is clear whether the pane has come out of its clamps, whether a cable or a clip has failed, or whether the mechanism itself is finished. You will get told which of those it is before anything is ordered.
Tell us the vehicle and the glass that's damaged — you'll see your price instantly, and we'll hold it for you.
Odd job the widget can't price? Send us the details and a human will quote it fast.
The instant quote is the fastest way to a price. For unusual jobs, fleet work, or anything that needs a human, use the form — we answer fast during shop hours.
| Monday – Saturday | 09:00 – 17:00 |